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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

1-Jul-2016 At 3:38:20 PM One Day Hero

Message

I haven't changed much of what I do, because nothing particularly useful has been invented in the 20 years I've been climbing.

-Daisy chains/pas things are for uni-club goobers, and always have been

-All the jizzing on about rigging belays has been going forever, and nothing has changed. If anything, I take less care with equalisation (now that its been proven not to work), and more care with not falling back onto the belay (but I never did factor 2 much anyway). Just do whatever you do faster and with less faff, simple!

-Grigri, atc, whatever. If my partner sucks and spends half the day hanging on the rope, I wish I brought an autolock. If they are awesome and stroll everything, I wish I brought the atc. There is no right answer.

-The main trick I've learned is to look better than you are by having shit wired. I used to see hardmen (e.g. Fants and Mikl) fly up hardish things without resting, getting the gear right first time every time. My response at the time was "gee, I wish I had the skills to read routes that quickly"......now I know, just climb the bloody thing twenty times, put the #3 wire in the same spot you always put the #3 wire.

-Comfort and convenience makes you go soft. Eventually we'll all go soft, but I try to sleep in the dirt and do uncomfortable things to delay the inevitable.