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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Quick Q Re: Solo TR 9-Jun-2016 At 4:01:06 PM surfziggy
Message

>Sweet stoner logic bro, but nope. Best practice (and least death) is to fold rope in half, protect the choppy edges, use a mini-trax, micro-trax or whatever on one line (this line is also for abseiling on). If you can afford an asap, put that on the other line. Never need to touch it going up or down, asap just cruises along next to you watching your back. Asap is your best buddy, doesn't vague out, doesn't get distracted by boobs, only thing asap cares about is keeping you off the deck.

It's up to you what your margin of safety is. And I'm not encouraging anyone to do anything they're not comfortable.

What I've found though, (I've run over 1000 laps using this system in just the last year), is that on overhanging routes at limit there often isn't a way to pull in the slack on the grigri on the second rope. It also has a tendency to get in the way, by falling behind you. The extra sling on the belay loop also runs the risk of snagging in the mini traxion. Also, consider that when you normally climb on lead you trust one rope, one belay loop (on the belayer).

I use rope protectors at the anchors and a static rope. My other suggestions for safety is that on overhanging routes, rap down and clip the rope through draws. Also, I've used a directional at the bottom of a route if it traverses.
Also, make sure you at least carry a prussik and a sling or a single jumar. I've had to use these many times in the past after doing 3 or 4 back to back laps, ending up super pumped and hanging in free space.

I'm not telling anyone how to do it, just explaining the system I use and have used for several years. It's also the same system I know has been used by a full time climbing friend for 20+ years without incident.

I'm not closed minded so will check out the asap as well.


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