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Fully sick bolt wars at Araps 16-May-2016 At 3:36:14 PM One Day Hero

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On 16/05/2016 The good Dr wrote:
>What set of rules? There never was any and what you see as the current
>rules are just a figment of personal and confirmation bias. There
>were no rules. Same with the Blueys. etc etc.

Bullcrap. I agree that things weren't cut and dried, but give me some examples of flat out retrobolting or squeezing sport routes up against existing trad routes prior to the mid 2000s.

>So when do you propose that the noobs, that you are so contemptuous of,
>actually get a say.

While Macca's proposal sounds a bit far out the way he stated it, do you actually think it's a good idea to have climbers who have been in the game less than 12 months running around the crag with a drill?

>In some ways, the old cranks maybe should
>not get a say. If they had ruled the roost in days gone by, or continued
>to do so, climbing would have never progressed. You may not have noticed,
>but the level of difficulty of routes is grades harder on 'spurt' routes
>and this has allowed the skills of the headpointers to develop whereby
>harder 'headpoint' routes can be established.

Really? You're trotting out this tired old crap? I reckon that if you exclude about 10 climbers in the whole country, the rest of Australia's climbing population is not onsighting any harder on gear than they were in the 80s (which used to be one of the main measures of good climbers, right)
>
>BTW. Clean climbing is a self congratulatory misnomer. Some big holes
>have been dug in the ground so that you can have that #4RP and the biners
>to clip it with.

You're better than this, don't waste our time with unrelated nonsense. "Errrrr, global warming is happening so it's ok for me to do whatever I want at the crag"