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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Fully sick bolt wars at Araps 16-May-2016 At 1:25:11 PM The good Dr

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>The only consensus needed is for them to follow the rules which were developed
>before they even set foot in a gym, not what they think once they eventually
>get to a cliff...

What set of rules? There never was any and what you see as the current rules are just a figment of personal and confirmation bias. The development of climbing at Arapiles (to take it back to elements of the start of the thread) was always a mish mash of styles, inconsistent reporting of ascents, hypocrisy, visionary and tainted ascents and so much complexity. There were no rules. Same with the Blueys. etc etc.

So when do you propose that the noobs, that you are so contemptuous of, actually get a say. Do they have to climb a series of routes lain down in 'the Mac-manual' and answer a series of questions to your satisfaction, followed by a knot tying session. In some ways, the old cranks maybe should not get a say. If they had ruled the roost in days gone by, or continued to do so, climbing would have never progressed. You may not have noticed, but the level of difficulty of routes is grades harder on 'spurt' routes and this has allowed the skills of the headpointers to develop whereby harder 'headpoint' routes can be established.

BTW. Clean climbing is a self congratulatory misnomer. Some big holes have been dug in the ground so that you can have that #4RP and the biners to clip it with.