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Fully sick bolt wars at Araps 11-May-2016 At 5:34:30 PM One Day Hero

Message

On 11/05/2016 simey wrote:
>I actually think that route by route "fixing" does work. If someone oversteps
>the mark, then there is the chance to say so and remove the bolts.

There are tons of modern retrobolts I would like to remove from Araps. The reasons I haven't done so are that a) I'm not a local here, and b) most of the bolts were installed by people I know and like, and they'd probably take it personally............and c) who has the time to chop at araps when there are so many good routes to climb?

>Every
>climb at Arapiles has a different set of considerations with regard what
>is reasonable/unreasonable with potential bolting. A "whole cliff view"
>doesn't allow for the myriad of climbs and climbing styles that take place
>at Arapiles.

I didn't mean a single ethic for the whole cliff. When looking at a single route with blinkers on, it might seem to be better with retrobolts. But step back and look at the whole wall, and perhaps the no-star route with ugly bolts on a wall full of classics is in fact not the best thing for the crag.

>Not every piece
>of rock needs to be climbed nor have a line of bolts up it.

I like the idea of "red zones". If you've scoped out a section of cliff and feel that any new bolted route would be impinging upon the routes around it, designate a red zone on a photo topo. Any bolts which appear in the red zone are subject to immediate chopping, regardless of whether they are written up as retrobolts, new routes, or variants.