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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

belaying seconds on a multipitch 15-Apr-2016 At 9:40:13 PM Timfreddo

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On 14/04/2016 martym wrote:
>What is people's preferred method for top belay from the very top - for
>example at Point Perp where you have nothing to raise the anchor from?

In this situation I usually:
- make anchor
-sit on the edge (facing out )
- clip into focal point with a clove hitch
-then tie a fig 8 on a bight level level with my hip with the rope coming out the dead side of clove hitch
-belay off this figure 8 as if it were my belay loop.

Makes escaping the belay easier as you can just tie off device and walk back and untie from end of rope.
If pitch comes up at an angle, I clip a biner or QuickDraw between my belay loop and the bight of rope in the figure 8 to keep it all within reach.
If you tie the fig 8 in the right spot you should easily be able to lock the device off without the risk of it pulling you over the edge if there's too much stretch in the rope when weighted.