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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

belaying seconds on a multipitch 14-Apr-2016 At 9:24:55 PM Macciza

Message

On 13/04/2016 mikllaw wrote:
>A second is body weight only, if your belay is so poor that you can't
>lower a bod off half of it, start downclimbing pronto. Certainly don't lead above it

Seriously Mikl? A redirected second when caught is 2 body weights at the anchor.
Why would you hang of two (half body weight on each) and belay off one (at double body weight)? Sure if they are well placed bolts in good rock it should be fine but it is counter to the general concept of a two piece equalised belay setup.

Perhaps the most important thing is to try to be well back from the return point as you can be and ideally with your weight opposing the expected force i.e. lean back on your attachment. As opposed to being close to the anchor and leaning into it.

Cheers