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|Moorhead '81 routes at Arapiles
Mark Moorhead had an amazing year at Araps in 81 - these are his new routes for the year, I thought that they would make a good project to repeat them in a year. I had a brief go the year I did Cobwebs and after spending 2 days on Cayenne and 2 days on Impasse (both 24) I realised it was very definitely not going to happen.
Adam Demmert asked me for the list so I thought I'd put it here.
I'm A Little Dinosaur
Hey There Little Insect
Down To Zero
Intergalactic Space Patrol
Ferrets And Berts
See You Round
The Last Laugh
Dead And Buried
Shadows And Light
a lot of work there!!
Now this is a good thread.
would be a great challenge to try and get that all knocked off in year.
All in EB's too !
On 10/04/2016 Dave J wrote:
>would be a great challenge to try and get that all knocked off in year.
Far too long for a 'great' challenge ...
Maybe 'Moorhead-81's in Month' now that's a challenge!
PS I've been considering A Ewbanks Piddington Weekend, not quite the same difficulty but similar number of routes . . . Including an 850m traverse!
>Mark Moorhead had an amazing year at Araps in 81 - these are his new routes for the >year, I thought that they would make a good project to repeat them in a year
While the cats away ...pretty sure Kim spent most of 1981 in England... and commented in Crags mag that it would take him a whole year to catch up with wot was going on at Araps...
Letting Go 27The others noodled around for a few days cleaning up the easy stuff, then Moorhead produced this! Sustained, with a strenuous bouldery crux. In fact, two bouldery strenuous cruxes now that a hold has broken lower down. Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir,
I'm A Little Dinosaur 18 Mark Moorhead & Rod Young
Hey There Little Insect 15 Mark Moorhead & Rod Young
Cob webs 28overhung seam up the middle of the wall with a piton
Mr Sheen 23Polished face, with 1 BR which is scary to clip, and a scary finish. Mark Moorhead, Malcolm Matheson
Down To Zero 28 Short flake, fixed wire, to BR. Up wall then L to flake. Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir,
Los Finales 23R on suss rock, up short crack, R below bulge, then straight up to roof and beyond. Mark Moorhead & John Middendorf,
Intergalactic Space Patrol 24It's not had a great reputation but it's a great looking piece of rock so maybe it's worth doing. Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir
Great Temptation 26Hand traverse into the base of the very overhung crack. Up this, being careful of the opposite wall. A good belayer essential.
Deliciously Deranged 26 Starts on the upper terrace above 'Dreadnought' pitch 1. Climbs the impossible looking overhung face to gain the crack weakness and hanging corner 3m right of 'Great Temptation'. Extremely hard dynamic start past a bolt leads to pockets up and right, then traverse back left into hanging corner to a rest. Onwards up the fantastic corner to top.
Nursery Rhymes 25 Attack the awesomely steep arete just R of Ali's, starting with a roof crack, Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir
Ferrets And Berts 23 Climb the arete with one bolt and not much else pro. Deviating into XI briefly at half height to avoid the widow maker loose flake is sensible (but if you're leading this you're probably a bit short on sense).
Strolling 23 Up the steep flake, traverse 5m L under the bulge to a bolt, then over the bulge and up. Pro is ok but quite tricky to get in on lead.
Strolling RHV 24 My honest opionion about this wall is that the best line on it is the original Strolling RHV (24). It is a classic weakness up the guts of the buttress and which is (was) a memorable and challenging ground-up lead. I've never worked out why Moorhead called it Strolling RHV given that it is more direct than the original Strolling….simey 2005
Sonic Boom 25 A more compact little orange overhang you will not find. The steep section offers great moves on surprisingly good holds and is soft at the grade ... if you don't plug gear in the key holds.
London Calling 27 Up thin seam to traverse line, R and up to BR, diagonally R to 2nd BR, then trend L to 3rd BR (despite the unfortunate chipped hold, this is still the crux). Nathan Hoette linked the start of 'Balance of Power' into 'London Calling' in Nov. 2004, which is 29* and called Berlin Calling (if you think link-ups deserve their own name).
See You Round 26 A very tough crux down low.
The Last Laugh 22 Mark Moorhead & Chris Shepherd,
Being There 21 Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir
Welcome Home 21 Mark Moorhead & Chris Shepherd,
Moving Pictures 24 a committing traverse out R then up to fixed wire Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir
Holy Moses 26 Sparse pro Mark Moorhead & Kim Carrigan
Dead And Buried 22 First Ascent: Mark Moorhead, Glenn Tempest & Jeff Lamb (pitch 1 only), 1981 First Free Ascent: Kim Carrigan & Chris SHepherd, 1982
Marbuck 24 A very very big roof,
‘…I interviewed Jon Muir and he spoke about the time he was nearly killed by a large block coming off Marbuck (24) at Mt Arapiles as one of the best things that had happened to him….’
Stepping Out 25 Mark Moorhead & Chris Shepherd
Cornflakes 25 Undercling strenuously Mark Moorhead, Jon Muir. Direct finish : Paul Hoskins & Scott Camps, 1988
Escape 26 Stem up chimney with feet on one side and hands on the other, Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir
Adios Amigos 25 Great line with vicious crux Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir
Shadows And Light 26 A beautiful, overhanging arete, with a rest on the left that's hard to ignore.
Armed Forces 25 First Ascent: Rod young, Ant Prehn. Mark Moorhead, Jon Muir eliminated the rest. Kim Carrigan & Chris Shepherd added start as described., 1982
Cadence 24 Lovely slab leads to awkward roof. Bolt is rusty and rock looks loose in roof. Mark Moorhead & Jim Thomas
Common Knowledge 24 A great 2 pitch outing, though doing the entire route in one pitch is recommended. First Ascent: Mark Moorhead led both pitches with Chris Shepherd & Tony Dignan seconding respectively
Tynee Tips 24 An attractive but serious lead.
Amok 23 Wildy pumpy. A full set of cams is all that is needed Mark Moorhead, Chris Shepherd & Roddy McKenzie
Impasse 24 Wandery but good climbing Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir
Short Cut 23 A serious continuation Mark Moorhead & Chris Shepherd
Cheap Trip 23 Mark Moorhead Chris Shepherd,
Cliff Hanger 24 First Ascent: Kim Carrigan Rod young (wall)Mark Moorhead Chris Shepherd (roof 81), 1979
Phys Ed 23 A gymnastic ceiling crack Mark Moorhead Brian Fish,
Gilette 24 Mark Moorhead & Kim Carrig
The Trial 25 Epic route-finding Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir
Cayenne 24 Red-hot start then good pumpy climbing Mark Moorhead & Chis Shepherd
Hopscotch 23Used to be a grade 21 sandbagMark Moorhead & Chris Shepherd,
GRADE 28 x 2
GRADE 27 x 2
GRADE 26 x 6
GRADE 25 x 7
GRADE 24 x 11
GRADE 23 x 9
GRADE 22 x 2
GRADE 21 x 2
A YEAR ?????
dalia reckons Peter Croft and Geff Weigand soloed 110 pretty hard routes in a day at Araps ..............prolly not 28s BUT !!!
On 10/04/2016 ima.seriousyoungliza wrote:
>A YEAR ?????
>dalia reckons Peter Croft and Geff Weigand soloed 110 pretty hard routes
>in a day at Araps ..............prolly not 28s BUT !!!
There are heaps of people who would hike all of those routes in a season. I'm not one of them though, and you sure as fuch aren't either.
I couldn't even think up that many route names in a year
i haven't climbed that many routes in total since i started climbing.
Seeing that list reminded me that it was that particular year I spent the winter and some of the spring in WA's Pilbara, working my sole stint in the mining industry. Big machines, lots of beer, hard hats, explosives, it was a blast. I've kept, but not perused for a couple of years, a letter Mark sent me towards the end of my time there.
It starts out something like this:-
"Now you may be hoping, while you work on your tan, that it'd be too cold for anything much to be happening down south. That would be mistake, ha, ha! No, no, no, don't even think for a second that nothing much has been going on down south. Only ....."
There followed a summation of obviously a frenzy of new route activity.
"See, you move away from the Pines and look what happens"
There are 11 messages in this topic.
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