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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Manufacturing 14-Aug-2004 At 12:52:02 AM mikl law

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Rod w >I have to disagree with you there Mr law, dont grey the issue, its wrong and no excusses....there are plenty of "natural" lines undeveloped, go and do them and leave the blank faces alone.<

What part of my note did you disagree with, that it's more complex than it seems at first, or that it's a waste of time and you should just bolt a hold on rather than chip?

While Arapiles has many modified holds, the outcomes were generally excellent. For those of you who haven't seen people do new hard routes at Araps, there's often a number of flakes which wouldn't hold a climber and get removed, how they are removed is the key. I don't see a problem with comfortising holds (knocking the crystal out of the hold on Hit the Deck with a biner meant you could try it twice in a day, smoothing the pocket on Slope'n'sleazin made it a grade or 2 harder, but you could try it without blood-shed), but London Calling was probably a mistake.

At the same time, I think that more holds should be reinforced, for reasons ranging from safety (I should fix the block on I must go down to the sea again) to aesthetics (I rarely break holds (gentle and weak), but often find repeats break things. When I spot something like that I reinforce it beforehand), particularly when the alternatives are a classic, or a one move shocker, 4 grades harder