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Sonnie Trotter Goes Down on Tasmania 25-Feb-2016 At 9:57:46 AM Tastrad

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Like what Dave said that the FFA is the starting point, and not some ethical highpoint that CJ suggests.

If ethical highpoints were the rule, then Reinhold Messner is the only person to ever truly climb Mt Everest..solo without oxygen..by fair means. In rockclimbing the FFA goes to the first person to lead the route from bottom to top without falling or weighting gear, regardless of the style..then subsequent repeats can improve on the style, but they can't claim a FFA..

One thing that attracted me to climbing in the first place was there was something anarchistic about it..no rules..climb in whatever style you want...the only rule really is that to claim a first free ascent, you've got to lead the route without falling or resting on gear. The games climbers play..this debate has revealed all the bullshit rules climbers have invented, when there is only one rule..the FFA..because without a FFA, the route wouldn't exist (except as an aid route maybe).

The ethical quagmire revolves around style..the first ascensionist should always try to do it in the best style possible, but sometimes circumstances, ability, head space, rock quality etc combine to erode the style..but as long as the one rule is adhered to..no falls, no weighting gear..then the FFA can be claimed. Seems weird that trad and sport have different rules..in a FA of a sport route there's often lots of top rope rehearsal, the draws can be on, high first bolts stick clipped, long draws pre-placed on reachy bolts..there's not much room for improvement in style here..but on trad the ethics police want absolute purity..but its all climbing, so the same rule applies..no falls or weighting gear..so whats good enough for a sport route should be good enough for trad to claim the first ascent..after that, the style can be improved.

A first ascent of trad route is still valid with top-rope rehearsal, pre-placed gear either dogged in or on rappel, first nut placed with a stick, pitons, a bolt or two (how silly to have a double standard on a mixed gear route..I can hang the draws off the bolts, but I have to place the trad gear on lead). Even with this shit style, the first ascent counts as long as they free climbed it..the style can always be improved.

I have often gone back to trad routes I did the FA of in less than impeccable style, and tried to improve it. As long as first ascensionists are honest about their style in reporting their ascents, then repeaters are forewarned..if a bold route was rehearsed on top-rope, had some pre-placed gear etc, then unless you are as good as Sonnie Trotter, to avoid serious injury you might be advised to do the same.
Congratulations to Sonnie on the FFA of C..head Crack.