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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Sonnie Trotter Goes Down on Tasmania 24-Feb-2016 At 10:47:05 AM Macciza
Message
Simey, I'm talking about the objective dangers of big falls, bad gear or bad landings not the subjective fear and anxiety dangers. The objective danger never really changes.
Yes rehearsal makes the climbing easier, much like sport climbers aiding bolt to bolt to put the draws on then falling up the route, working out the crux on the dogging bolt before going for the eventual 'redpoint flash' or whatever they call it these days . . . .
And just like spurt climbers who still manage to fall despite 'having it wired' when going for the send, the same thing can happen on dangerous routes but with greater consequence. Sometimes the routes are tried ground up onsight, mostly it depends on the grade and the climber - if you are pretty sure that you stand a damn good chance of falling off with catastrophic results then rehearsal becomes a pretty good option; if you are confident that you can do it or at least back off and downclimb then you can go for it.

Well of course you know if we are talking dangerous routes I was going to bring it up. It is still awaiting a third ascent, And I recall you expressed some interest so I like to remind you every now and again...

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