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General Climbing Discussion

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Sonnie Trotter Goes Down on Tasmania 23-Feb-2016 At 6:30:56 PM Macciza

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Now back to the mainstream of this discussion . . (meant to post it earlier)

Before we leave E grades perhaps a little schooling is in order . .
There is no such thing as an E2 or E9 or whatever, as thats only half the grade - what about the 'technical' part, its equally if not more important. Its like calling Shai Hulud XXX route - it makes no sense with out the technical component ~23. Or maybe E5/6A but not E5/6B . . .

Anyway, the way I read Sonnies FB post was that he claimed a pinkpoint ascent of the route and confessed his stylistic shortcomings. How many sport climbers claim redpoints with the gear on?? And how many sport routes get done after stick clipping the first ring or even the second? Even on the FFA??

Yes 'style' matters but it does not really change the fact that you climbed something without falling - i.e. if you don't fall you have effectively soloed the route with the added hassle of rope and gear which was not physically used, though mentally it probably helped. Other peoples ascents can be viewed as a benchmark to improve upon. First ascents often don't really have that luxury but once something has a grade one can decide to try it as an onsight if they feel up to it. Or do whatever it takes to do it in better form. Yes going ground up onsight is the best form (hopefully in one go before some f#cker retrobolts your line) , but generally only done on trad or fairly easy non dangerous sport.

And as to top-roping/headpointing dangerous routes, the danger does not suddenly disappear just because you have rehearsed it a few times; and its really not that different to sport climbers aiding up to put draws on so they can go for the redpoint onsight or whatever they want to call it these days....