Chockstone Forum

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

Chockstone Photography

Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Sonnie Trotter Goes Down on Tasmania 21-Feb-2016 At 10:07:23 PM johny

Message

On 19/02/2016 One Day Hero wrote:
>All good mate, if I didn't like you I wouldn't even bother giving you shit.
>
>Maybe we can have a confession session about poor f.a. style?
>
>I found this cool crack in an obscure location, the year before last.
>It's only 23ish, but the crux is the first 4m and you start off a sharp
>boulder. It's totally protectable the whole way, but you'd have to place
>3 bits of gear mid-crux to make sure you don't deck.......Like you, I'm
>not a huge fan of routes where the crux is putting in the gear, so I just
>stick clipped the highest wire in and climbed it Trotter style. Am I going
>to go to hell?

So are you trying to contrive an imaginary route into a logical paradox? If it is "totally protecable" then... what is the problem? Did you forget to insert the corollary that this imaginary route is also nearly impossible to lead while placing the gear? If you are going to continue with these types of analogies please try to make them relevant. Its hard enough to argue with you much more arguing for you as well. :)

To take a really existing example similar to your imaginary route, Yesterday has a stick placed wire. But you dont have to preplace that wire on Yesterday anyway and many people have done it without. I always have mainly because its fun to try and cowboy it in, but its not a really bad fall like c--khead crack or mr natural. The best aid climber in the world is not going to stick place the gear on c--khead or mr natural.