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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Sonnie Trotter Goes Down on Tasmania 20-Feb-2016 At 11:26:41 PM Dave J
On 20/02/2016 johny wrote:
>Well those trad routes may have seen an ascent placing gear. I heard that
>sonny had done both natural and god placing gear. I climbed mother of god
>with preplaced and was happy enough with it.

Likewise. This is a classic example of getting the gear back out between shots being more work than putting it back in again it on lead the next shot.

> mr natural in my opinion is a farce..

Worthless? or just contrived on the gear front? I don't think it was worth bolting and frankly the gear situation i the only thing that makes it memorable. For the record stuart was tricked into doing this on gear by Gordy. when told by stu that he'd found a new line he was going to bolt...he managed to pullout of his arse a story about Hoss trying it on natural gear, convincingly enough that stu. If Hoss came along and retrobolted the line at this point, I would be content enough with that story arc for that route but otherwise I think its a good addition to the history arapiles. I imagine it would still be a good challenge from a ground up perspective.

> I reckon Malcolm's ascent is still the best
>and I have mad respect.
Malcolm always said he thought that as a bottom line, the gear should be put in on lead from the ground on the day the route gets done(and pulling the rope between shots). That always seemed like a pretty decent real-world standard. not placing it once and then leaving it till the route is done and not spending most of your time and energy rapping down to strip the route between attempts.
>But I have to challenge the whole idea it is "anal to the point of insanity"
>to work a trad route with the notion of placing the gear as a negative
>thing. Is it anal OCD to climb Punks 40 times to get Punks Addiction? If
>so I welcome anal obsession.

A bit cheeky making jokes like this at Zac's expense while he's not here to defend himself...

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