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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Sonnie Trotter Goes Down on Tasmania 19-Feb-2016 At 3:00:42 PM johny

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On 19/02/2016 kieranl wrote:
>In most respects I agree with Johny's position : style matters. But it
>takes things a bit far to call ascents "valid" or "invalid" depending on
>styles. Some styles may be a joke but that of itself doesn't make them
>invalid

I think that is what Lee was getting at. That preplaced is like a sport climb. I would like to believe that we are at a place now where no one would consider a top-roped sports route as a ffa. I believe that pre-placed gear routes are the same as toproping a sport climb (actually worse). So basically both are invalid as far as FFA goes. In Australia we can have mixed routes right? I think the controversy is to bolt or not to bolt. Once its decided to go with gear than place the gear on lead. The old way of leaving a fixed wire is pretty obviously stupid and I think went out of fashion the same time lycra was coming in.