The purest style of roped climbing is onsight trad, placing gear, without pre-inspection. Anything after this is a grey area; and can always be done in a better style, although hard trad is almost never done in this pure style anyway. He could have top roped it, and claimed the first top rope ascent. As it is, he claimed the first lead ascent with preplaced and preclipped wires at the crux.
IMO, if it's a well established ethic in Tas to only claim a proper FA placing gear, then I guess his ascent could be ignored once the climb is done in a better style. |