Chockstone Forum

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

Chockstone Photography

Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Author

Traversing routes/pitches


euce

7-Oct-2015
12:12:02 PM

I'd like to assemble a list of traversing routes/pitches in Australia. Girdle traverses, traversing pitches, diagonal pitches etc., essentially lines where skillful/technical traversing is the essence of the pitch/route (rather than "walk to right end of ledge" or "traverse 5 m left, continue upward for 30 m"). All grades, sport and trad.

Please add your contributions.

VIC
Scarab (12), Bundaleer
The Bard (12) p. 3, Arapiles
Watchtower Chimney (12) p. 1 (short traverse section), Arapiles
Jezebel (13), Arapiles
Traverse of the Gods (13), Cathedral Ranges
Smooth Journey (14), Arapiles
Hot Flap (14) p. 2 (diagonal), Arapiles
Lamplighter (14) p. 2 (rising traverse), Arapiles
Lynx (15), Arapiles
Catwalk (15) p.3, Chimney Pots, Grampians
Odysseus (17), Bundaleer
Red Tide (17), Briggs Bluff, Grampians
Darwins Theory (18), Eureka Wall, Grampians
Skink (18) p. 3, Arapiles
High Tide (18), Briggs Bluff - no write up?
Judgement Day (19), Arapiles
Twentieth Century Fox (20), Grampians
The Sultan (20) p. 2, Buffalo
Trinity Wall (21), Arapiles
Sandinista (23), Grampians
Orestes, Arapiles

Ozymandias Original p. 7&8 rising traverse, M2/19
The Seventh Pillar, p 3 (22/M1); also p. 1 variant (23)

NSW
Sweet Dreams (14), Sublime Point
Hotel California (p. 6), Pierces Pass
The Spartan (15), Mt Piddington
The Grand Traverse (15), Narrow Neck, Blue Mtns
Out and Beyond (15), Belougery Spire, Warrumbungles
Working From Home (16), Mt K
Rimfire (17), Bluff Mountain, Warrumbungles.
The Devil and the Deep, Point Perpendicular (lower tier)
Blazing Jugs, Windjammer Wall, Point Perp
Strangenes and Charm p 2 (18), Bungonia Gorge

The Long and Winding Road (16 M0), Narrow Neck, Blue Mountains
The Masterpiece (20 M4), Mt Piddington, Blue Mountains

QLD
Borderline 29 (18), Frog

Animal Act (15/M5), Mt Maroon
Party Trick (16/M?), Mt Maroon

SA
Upstairs Downstairs (23), Great Wall, Moonarie + Providence (19), Great Wall, Moonarie
Hangover Layback ??? Moonarie

TAS
Sea-level Traverse, Freycinet
Skyline Traverse, somewhere ????


IdratherbeclimbingM9

7-Oct-2015
12:32:07 PM

Vic / Mt Buffalo; Ozymandias Original route has a rising traverse pitch 7ish into-and 8 that goes at M2/19.
Vic / Taipan Wall; The Seventh Pillar (22/M1) has a belly traverse P3, and a bold grade 23 variant first pitch traverse.

NSW / Warrumbungles; Belougery Spire; Out and Beyond (15), has an intimidating near ropelength traverse on P2 (actually the 3rd pitch^plus! off the deck!).
& Bluff Mountain (W'bungles) has Rimfire (17) being a girdle traverse of 480m.

Qld / Frog Buttress; Borderline 29 (18) has a fun little traverse...

... Here is gfdonc's opportunity to promote Red Tide?
Heh, heh, heh.

JonSnow9

7-Oct-2015
12:52:27 PM

The Spartan (15)- Piddo


shortman

7-Oct-2015
12:57:49 PM

On 7/10/2015 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>
>... Here is gfdonc's opportunity to promote Red Tide?
>Heh, heh, heh.

You mean the world wide premier traversing route Red Tide??

Wendy

7-Oct-2015
1:05:11 PM

On 7/10/2015 shortman wrote:
>On 7/10/2015 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>>
>>... Here is gfdonc's opportunity to promote Red Tide?
>>Heh, heh, heh.
>
>You mean the world wide premier traversing route Red Tide??

Second only to The Twilight Zone on Tiger Wall. Or the Long, the short and the tall.

All the best boulder problems are traverses.


IdratherbeclimbingM9

7-Oct-2015
1:06:49 PM

On 7/10/2015 Wendy wrote:
>>On 7/10/2015 shortman wrote:
>>>On 7/10/2015 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>>
>>>... Here is gfdonc's opportunity to promote Red Tide?
>>>Heh, heh, heh.
>
>>You mean the world wide premier traversing route Red Tide??
>
>Second only to The Twilight Zone on Tiger Wall. Or the Long, the short and the tall.
>

Yep, that's the one, allegedly second only to the fabled girdle traverse of Uluru/Ayers Rock which apparently makes TZ, and LS&T seem like trifles in comparison...
;-)


rodw

7-Oct-2015
1:14:52 PM

I think you missing Working From Home, the 5 star Girdle in Mt K :)

http://www.thecrag.com/climbing/australia/hornsby-and-the-north/route/15247159


IdratherbeclimbingM9

7-Oct-2015
1:44:02 PM

On 7/10/2015 rodw wrote:
>I think you missing Working From Home, the 5 star Girdle in Mt K :)
>(snip)
~> that just brought us back to earth with a thud...
Heh^x3


deadbudgy

7-Oct-2015
1:46:15 PM

Sandanista (23), in the Grampians


rodw

7-Oct-2015
1:55:58 PM

>~> that just brought us back to earth with a thud...
>Heh^x3

Some old timers just cant see new age quality :)

There was a girdle on Railways cliif at cosmic from memory?..cant remember name and details though.

(removed)

7-Oct-2015
2:21:48 PM

On 7/10/2015 deadbudgy wrote:
>Sandanista (23), in the Grampians

Sandanista is much more up than across.

There's hundreds though ... lots of them really crap
1. Remembrance Day on Dec Crag
2. Warlock at Camel's Hump
3. Parallels (above Judgement Day)
4. Pretty in Punk (sorry Stuart)
5. Mr Chicken !
6. They Shoot Horses Don't They on the Plaque
7. Lots of London Calling
8. Serpentine Pitch 1
9. Lots of Seventh Pillar
10. The business on Despatched on the Bluffs
...
...

kieranl

7-Oct-2015
2:32:14 PM

Ewbank's Masterpiece at Piddo

edit : A Step In The Right Direction at Arapiles

gfdonc

7-Oct-2015
2:54:35 PM

Basilisk, Bundaleer.


Grinder

7-Oct-2015
3:13:44 PM

After "climbing" Red Tide, I did a bit of digging on the longest routes in Australian states as preparation for the onslaught of media enquiries. Naturally I found that a few of these are traverses:

Girdle Traverse 17 320m, North Buttress, Bororoomba Rocks, ACT
A Good Line 18 110m, Cephalopod Wall, Fleurieu Peninsula, SA (*** according to The Crag!)
Show Us Your Girdle, Bonney 18, 180m, Bonney Point, Flinders Ranges.

There a number of long ridge climbs that often get called traverses, but I don't think that is what you are looking for.

The climbs at Araps are so well documented that you could easily go through the guide an pick out the traverses. There are many that have traverse sections as the crux or highlight of the climb without the whole climb being a traverse. A few that spring to mind are Golden Echo 18, Northern Group, the traverse pitch of Skink, Right Watchtower and Trapeze, Castle Crag.


pmonks

7-Oct-2015
3:28:23 PM

NSW
Bungonia Gorge: Strangeness & Charm P2, 20m 18

daave

7-Oct-2015
3:33:30 PM

Blazing Jugs - 8 pitch gr 18 traverse on Windjammer Wall at Point Perpendicular.


Grinder

7-Oct-2015
4:06:27 PM

Darwin's Theory 18, Eureka Wall, Grampians


Grinder

7-Oct-2015
4:09:06 PM

Twentieth Century Fox 20***, Mt Fox, Grampians


Drake

7-Oct-2015
6:25:28 PM

The Devil and the Deep, 15 pitch 560m traverse on the lower cliff of Pt. Perp.

stugang

7-Oct-2015
6:55:54 PM

Dork Torque..

There are 46 messages in this topic.