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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

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Manufacturing 11-Aug-2004 At 12:07:39 PM Damietta

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As far as the rock itself is concerned, I don't see any difference between chipping holds and inserting bolts.

But as far as the people (us) are concerned, chipping is completely different from bolting, at least I think so, because the issue of chipping or not chipping is purely philosophical and esoteric. Bolting has the practicality and solid reasoning of safety. I don't think the argument used by Robbo, that the drill holes in the rock are cancelled out by the holes he didn't drill by way of leaving using trad placements, is valid.

Chipping comes around because the moves are deemed too hard or 'impossible' by someone, this is a very subjective decision.

Rod's comments bring up an interesting point as far as I am concerned.

Chipping by the first ascentionist versus chipping on an existing route. He suggests chipping is opening a can of worms. Maybe no more so than bolting. I think that most of the chipping is done by first ascentionists but very rarely (correct me if I'm wrong) are these given refinement by later ascentionists - if this was to occur we would be in the same moral territory as retro-bolting - retro-chipping?

Neilo: as much as the mono-doigt at the start of cheesemonster is sinker, I don't think it is drilled - I thought the same thing initially but there are no rock scars, the pocket is asymmetric and flares inwards. Maybe ask Andrew Bull. My point is mooot though because half the rest of the area has enhaced holds

I think that chipping should be frowned upon in principle - with the vagueries and peculiarities of each area taken into considerastion, peer pressure (the law of climbing) should be applied - as we hear about Neilo and Robbo being shunned - but if it happens, well it's unfortunate but I'm not going to lose sleep over it, aspecially if it happens at Nowra (you can't even hear the drill over the speedboats any way)