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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Loose bolt on Sweet Dreams 8-Jun-2015 At 5:53:30 PM nmonteith

Message

On 8/06/2015 E. Wells wrote:
>This is
>a stainless set screw that is ever so slightly loose on a grade 2 ledge.
>Not ideal, but as a trad peice I would say its bomber. There is no galvanic
>corrosion just a hole that wasnt obsessively brushed and blown.

I'm not sure if 'ever so slightly loose' is not worth worrying about! Any form or looseness in any sort of bolt (expansion, carrot or glue-in) should be treated with extreme caution. It is a very obvious sign of imminent total failure. Even though the climbign is easy on this route - the bolts are a long way apart and it is a traverse. People do weird shit with bolts. A frightened climber could easily clip in direct if they get scared and hang off this bolt. If it fell out the fall would be really really nasty. Low angle with ledges is way worse to fall off on then overhung.