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General Climbing Discussion

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Training Regimes 9-Apr-2015 At 1:36:15 PM Zarb

Message

If I could actually stick to regular climbing instead of going off on a surfing binge every few weeks, my climbing program would cycle like this:

4 weeks of stamina and skills, where I just try to get as much climbing done on as many different routes as possible. Try to push the grade, climb things I normally wouldn't climb (like arêtes), and get out on as many different rock types as possible. This is where I normally try to schedule some dirt-bag trips.

3 weeks of strength and power, where I do my best attempt at hangboard training, laps on HIT strips, campus training. What normally happens though is I get bored of all that and just end up doing some hard bouldering.

2 weeks of anaerobic endurance, where I mainly do laps on the auto belay at the gym, or traverses. It's painful, but I essentially try to get pumped to hell, and climb intervals while pumped to hell. High reps, low rest.

1 week rest, no climbing at all.

Do it all again.

The few times I have actually made it through a full 10 week cycle, it has been excellent with noticeable improvement. But most of the time what happens is the surf gets good and I leave town for a while, or a have a big F-off uni assignment and the cycle prematurely ends.