This Easter saturday... films, food and drinks (details still to be settled upon).
Ill update with details as they become available but this is really just a heads up for people with the next big climbing film burning inside them...or just someone who wants to snag themselves free entry and a chance to WIN PRIZES.
Wendy I think your 'Doug with not much on' concept is a winner....its got Hollywood written all over it.
For anyone else who doesn't have access to a scantily clad Doug and needs some inspiration, here are some of the entries from last years festival.
So you are all in for some stiff competition as I am trying for my second Golden Goat with another deadly serious climbing film. I'm not looking as much of a shoe in as I was the year I handed my film in the weekend beforehand and no one else had entered yet, but still, if you don't want bad climbing satire to win the night, you should really get on to filming something.
'...Despite masses of beta available on the internet, it still sees very few quick ascents, hasn't been onsighted and is still regarded as somewhat of a testpiece with a redpoint crux far above the technical crux and accounting for many an accomplished climber.
Many argue the route is easier than when Wolfgang and Stefan Glowacz did it in the mid 80's due to the increased size of the crux glue hold (the notorious birdbath). For a while considered "only" 31, it seems to have re-consolidated at 32....'
What is a redpoint crux ?
>the increased size of the crux glue hold (the notorious birdbath...
The birdbath looks like a chiselled jug to me ... not a glued hold ...
'...There is a bit of contention regarding a hold made from glue that was added and altered (the 'birdbath'). From what i can gather the glue reinforced a tiny crumbling edge or made a tiny edge holdable. Wolfgang used this for the first ascent and then later when the glue started to crumble away in the 90s the hold was re-glued slightly better. Despite this the route climbs amazingly well and is technically brilliant...'
OK ...well that clears it all up ... the bottom line is that anyone who criticizes Pollitt or Mc Connell ........... havent got a case ...or a clue ...
On 19/02/2015 Dave J wrote:
>Its coming up to that time of year again.
>This Easter saturday... films, food and drinks (details still to be settled
>Ill update with details as they become available but this is really just
>a heads up for people with the next big climbing film burning inside them...or
>just someone who wants to snag themselves free entry and a chance to WIN
>More details soon to follow...but for now...get making.
Your keenness on punks is impressive. If you really really want to know about the climb, climb it. Barring that, you can easily scramble to the chains and rap down it. be prepared for disappointment though. The glue hold has actually been broken and reglued at least twice now. So its a manufactured hold made out of glue that replaces an originally chipped hold, but the glue hold has now broken at least twice and been reglued back together. cant wait to get back on it!
On 22/03/2015 Imaclawfan wrote:
>THIS IS *VERY* IMPRESSIVE and makes me realise that will this amount
>of beta , anything is possible for ME to climb ...
>For the more anal(ysis) amongst us , you will note that Robbie (above)
>does a massive right hand over throw lunge to the Birdbath...
>While (below ) Logan grunt throws thru with his left hand ...
So, cats out of the bag and now you know you can get that hold with your LEFT or your RIGHT hand...the routes pretty much a doddle once you know that (just don't try and claim an onsight).
Meanwhile back in Goatfest land.
On top of the selection of locally made shorts we will be screening the reel rock 9: Valley uprising. I just watched it right then and its pretty bloody good.So come along. Food and booze also available on the night with the Nati Cafe stepping in for the first time to cook up a feast for you all.
There's still a week or so left to get your film in and win yourself a golden goat for your troubles (not to mention spectacular prizes).
I would like to remind everyone at this point that the winning film last year was made in just one day (Just do me a favour and don't make that day the actual day of the event).