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General Climbing Discussion

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Grid bolting at Windjammer Pt Perp 1-Dec-2014 At 5:45:31 PM uwhp510

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One of the problems as I see it with the newly bolted ...routes... (and I use that term advisedly) is that their developers have imported the sport climbing doctrine to a pretty traddy, adventurey cliff, whereby routes can just stop in the middle of the wall at a lower-off . There's a fair old section of Windjammer that is quite blank over the last 5 metres or so, and its here that much of the gridifying has occurred due to the space left underneath the blankness by the previous developers who had the taste to leave it alone.

The departure from the long established style of using bolts only where there's no gear (at the point in general, but particularly at Windjammer Wall) is a separate but also regrettable abandonment of GOOD STYLE. I've done a couple of those bolted things that end in lower-offs in the middle of Windjammer (can't remember the names but they are just sport routes after all) and thought that you could remove 1/2 to 2/3rds of the bolts without them feeling any more sketchy than they are now, which is not sketchy at all since they are sport routes.