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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Climbing protection for canyoning. 6-Nov-2014 At 12:20:18 PM DaveN
Message
Probably most canyoners use static ropes for these exits. For Mt Hay Canyon - the climbing section is very short - and bolted with fixed hangers. If you couldn't make the moves confidently - then you could always put slings on the bolts and climb up on those. The pitch is quite exposed.

If you take the Alpheus Canyon exit from Arethusa Canyon - the climbing is quite easy and not nearly as exposed. I think there are 2 - 3 short pitches plus a "tricky" bit in the creek (no pulling up overhangs or waterfalls if you follow the easiest route). It does involve a lot of wandering back and forth on ledges - to find easy bits up to the next level. This is both in the lower climbing section, and higher up - getting out of there creek. I have only been up this way once - and we were lucky that we had someone in the party that knew the way. I think we also carried a short dynamic rope for the climbing and some bolt plates (It has been re-bolted since our trip - with rings?)

As for using dynamic ropes in canyons - they are fine. When I started canyoning - the only ropes you could buy were dynamic - and that is what we used. I remember having a nice edelrid dynamic rope 9 mm and 45 m length - it lasted at least 15 years of very active canyoning use.

Dave

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