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General Climbing Discussion

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Arapiles revisited 19-Sep-2014 At 3:22:11 PM pedro.c

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On 19/09/2014 Wendy wrote:
>Simul rapping is for yahoos!

The couple I was referring to were having a kiss when we crashed their party. I think she'd just finished the roof at the end of lamplighter and blamed him for the terror she endured. They were making up when I found them. The simul rap seemed to be more romance than yahooing.
>
>Belaying from the top is definitely the safest way. I thread the anchors,
>tied an alpine butterflying the ropes, toss one down as the rap rope and
>use the other as the belay rope.

Good advice. Thanks

You are there to talk the person over
>the edge which is the hardest bit, and a bit of careful rope tossing should
>minimise the risk of them having tangles to deal with on the way down.
>If anything goes wrong, you are in a much better place to initiate a rescue.
>If you have to, you can take them on the top rope, get them to let go of
>the rap rope, pull hair out or whatever, even lower them to the ground
>if need be. What are you going to do belaying from the ground if they are
>unable to commit to getting on the abseil at the top? Or get their hair
>or clothes caught in the belay device?

The young bloke got that web of skin between his thumb and forefinger caught in his ATC once and these days we make sure little girls long hair gets tied back. This method you've suggested would've helped on both these occasions.

>
>The front descent is 2 short abseils and a scramble if you only have a
>single rope and I would do that over either of the big raps if you don't
>have doubles.

Couldn't find it and the knot of anxiety I had in my guts was too much for scrambling around up there, at dusk with kiddies.

Good experiences will bring
>her back again, which I'm sure you would like to happen!