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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Ethics: Removing old aid gear to make sport climbs 19-Aug-2014 At 8:47:51 AM nmonteith

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What is the name and location of this route? The style of a route and rebolting ethic differs greatly depending on the location and general history of the route. If a route stills gets a majority of its ascents via aid then it makes sense to make it still aidable. Not sure why people are suggesting using hangerless bolts instead of FHs or rings when the original bolts appear to be FHs. I've rebolted one route like this - Seventh Pillar on Taipan Wall. What I did is replace every 4th aid bolt with a new bolt, and left the cool original aid bolts in place. That way aiding it still has the historical feel but you won't die if all the 50 year old bolts snap off.