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Tick list for the fat and hairy 12-Aug-2014 At 12:53:08 PM Wendy

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On 12/08/2014 sleake wrote:

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>All I mean is that there is always someone keen to go and climb cool,
>easy access classic shorter lines, and they get done by 'default' Watchtower
>Crack, Oceanoid, Firebug are all perfect examples. Same as a 'week at frog'.
>Sure, frog is amazing, but all begins to blur into a haze of mashed toes
>and bloody knuckles.
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>Just looking for great routes that might be a bit more obscure.
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>Thanks to everyone - I had no real idea of the treasures that the Gramps
>held for a pleb like me - never spent any real time there.

There's nothing obscure about the recommendations for the Grampians - open the selected guide and look for the 3 star multipitches and there they are. Although if you haven't been there, I wouldn't let that stop you, they are really great. They probably get more ascents than Solomon (when I was at Piddo last November, I was amazed how quiet it was compared to when I lived there), but they are still rarely busy crags. My favs at Rosea are Heretic and Hard Times, although when I finally get around to doing the Ascention, that may change. And the Initiation and Maharajah would be the most popular multi pitches on the Plateau and the routes you are most likely to have to queue for. Odd though the idea of queueing and Buff is. My fav at Moonarie is Downwind of Angels, but it also probably falls into your easy to do category. But again, most the classics are worthwhile. Flying Buttress (don't pussy foot around the side of the business like lots of people, the real line is obvious), Pagoda, Hangover Layback, Icarus, Pine Crack, Miles from Nowhere etc. Don't bother with the grade 18 traverses by Pagoda that for reasons beyond my comprehension also have 3 stars. Nor the big picture. Reality Factor isn't that great either and I can take or leave outside chance. The (not so) easy corners in the Ramparts are good, but Shangri La is a bit blah. Knee deep chimney will be an adventure.

One of the things I really like about trad climbing, particularly above the mid teens and on bigger cliffs, is crowds are almost never a problem. Don't go to any of the above at Easter/school holidays and they will prob be quiet as. Except Taipan. Being more than a bit bolted, it gets a lot more attention.

If you really want obscure, big adventures, I'd try that route Kieran reccommends at Buff - the queen vic route. Or Green Gap pinnacle. or the chimney pots. But if you have never been to Moonarie/Buff/Gramps, I'd just pick a quiet time of year, go and jump on whatever takes your fancy. It would be hardpressed not to be awesome. Beautiful locations, big routes (relatively speaking), striking lines, great climbing and a reasonable chance of some excitement thrown in.