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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion
General Climbing Discussion
Topic
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Date |
User
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Punks - glue hold. |
25-Jun-2014 At 8:07:41 AM |
geriroc
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Message |
lately there have been ascents from punks from different climbers and we see videos and pictures in the net. most of the climbers talks about this big classic route after the have done it. but hardly anybody say something about this terrible glue hold(s) on it.
the first time i was on punks was in 87 just after Wolfgang climbed it, (i try the route at the time with Martin Scheel how boldet it) and i remember this crimp hold where it was so hard to clip the sling with the fixed nut and to make the next move after that.
I could not climb punks at that time but i came back, i think in 94 and i climbed it and i was so disappointed because this great route was not existing anymore.
I found this discussion on your page and thought i like to say something about that because Punks is such a classic and such a milestone and Wolfgang was allways a climber with big ethics.
There is really no question about it if this hold is artificial ore not.
The big embarrassing thing on the action from the person how destroyed Punks is, not only making the crimp bigger he all so close the next hold above, what was a hard shoulder move.
in my opinion is the best chip the sikka away and sombody will climb Punks free again some day. If you find the same old crimp under the sikka it would be the best, if not it will be maybe much harder but the route and Wolfgangs action will get the status back what it deserved.
greets from austria - gerhard hörhager |
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