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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Vic/NSW big wall 20-Jun-2014 At 1:05:30 PM jrc
Wendy 100% agree with the Angels recommendation. BTW having done it a few times in Roibins shoes i did it again a couple of years back in Aces: 4 mascerates ankle bones by the top so a good idea to tape up your legs with modern shoes. Or try Humzoos suggestion of a Super guide as well as an EB on the offwidth thread.

With respect i do take exception about the Bungles having "crap all gear on crap rock'. Routes named in this thread include Cornerstone Rib & Elijah and Bastion Buttress all of which can be protected solidly by nuts cams & slings; exception being perhaps the lower easyish pitches of cornerstone and maybe the crux of Elijah where there are a few balancy grade 14-15 moves ~8 m above your last runner, which is quite sound in itself, just a way beneath your butt. The Elijah belays, although bolted 50 years ago, are all able to be reinforced with excellent nuts &/ cams.

The rock is very good quality generally in the Bungles, although i do accept there is a degree of randomness in how well it is attached to the mountain. Part of the risk equation!
Route finding can be a challenge too in the Bungles - Cornerstone is pretty easy; Bastion and Elijah have immense opportunities to veer into scary country. Suggesting Elijah is 16 (not you - elsewhere on this thread) (when its got a crux move of 18) is probably not a good idea especially in the age of sport, where folks who might not have sound gear placing skills can get into trouble on a route with very limited rescue opportunities, and where getting off route means long delays to the climb.

I like your Grampians suggestions and i'll try a couple on our next Vic trip. Heretic looks like a ripper!

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