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New Scary Route at Stacks Bluff 12-Mar-2014 At 3:15:00 PM Damien Gildea

Message

On 12/03/2014 drdeviousii wrote:
>you rap inspected it, cleaned it, rehearsed it multiple times, ticked placements,
>racked gear in order, then say it was done in legitimate trad style!!!!!!
> NOICE one Gez, most people call that shite a failed sports route.
>

Nope. Nobody says that. As others have pointed out, it's been done for years, by plenty of good climbers on well-known routes and is still done in the UK. You can debate the finer points or (de)merits of 'headpointing' but it's not 'failed' sportsclimbing.

It's more accurate to say that sportsclimbing is failed rockclimbing.

> Any repeat will be in your sports-style, no-one
>is ever going to do it ground up ...??!?
>
>

Ah, OK, you're that guy who said that Cerro Torre would never be climbed, The Beatles would never make it and the computer would never take off? How's that prediction stuff working out for you so far?

Gerry's style leaves room for improvement, creating a future opportunity to excel. A line of bolts would deny that.