It's hardly a new approach. People have cleaned, located gear and rehearsed on top rope prior to "head-pointing" here and overseas for decades - was especially common at Araps and of course still is with UK "hard grit". It leaves the door open to others to do it onsight if they can, or in similar "head point" style, or even pre-placing the gear if they want to reduce the risk further.
Which part upset you dr? Was it the pre-inspection, cleaning, gear location, rehearsal or ordered the racking? Or did you think he should have bolted it and made it a sport route? |