bump... this is so awesome, I'm going to replace the Guardian as my default homepage!
"Cruxes: I always find that for me, the crux on a route is the hardest part. It’s usually a very hard move that spits me out like an olive pit."
"If you go back to the 1970′s with the cheapest ClimbX or Madrock climbing shoes you can find today, they would be so blown away, they would think you were an alien from the planet Climberon-5, sent here to replace those stiff, heavy, high top junk rubber atrocities they used to climb in."
"There have been a ton of comments and questions on this site, and I but will try to address some concerns some of you have had:
Via SuperTopo.com: budmiller wrote, “certainly a fake but a very good one. The devils in the details, like how he set his own 5.12!”
My Response: Budmiller, just because I set my own routes, does not mean I am fake. I try to be as real as possible. "
"Anonymous wrote, “Hey Wes, great blog. Helped me get the right stuff to go do some top roping out at the crag out in Sydney. Totally stoked to read your blog. Hey man was wondering if you could like teach me how to like place those anchor things in the rock….but like over the internet man. Raaaad!!”
My Response: Thanks so much! I am very happy to have helped you! It’s nice to know I have fans out in Sydney! I love Kiwis, and hope to visit some day! Those anchor things in the rock are called bolts! It is very important you learn how to place these from a certified mountain guide/route developer and check with your local climbing area’s access fund before ever attempting to do so. I am a self-taught route developer."
"At the climbing gym, when a pretty girl you don’t know starts asking you for beta, deafening alarms start going off in the male mind. 'SHE LIKES YOU, SHE LIKES YOUR MUSCLES, SHE LOVES YOUR BEANIE' " |