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General Climbing Discussion

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new use for an old knot 3-Mar-2014 At 3:50:31 PM Justcameron

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On 3/03/2014 kieranl wrote:
>If it's not quite as smooth over an edge as an overhand, why use it? There
>are enough ways for a rope to hang up on abseil without adding to the risk.

I acknowledge that the flat overhand is a good knot. However it doesn't have an excellent track record, and if the tails are too short, it is not pre-tensioned or is poorly dressed it has caused accidents. If tied correctly it is a good knot though.

My own understanding is that the alpine butterfly bend does not have the same problems with capsizing or being poorly dressed.

I imagine that if the need arose (horrible looking abseil route which involved dragging the rope through cracks and over knobbly edges etc.) or if I had a bad experience with a rope stuck, I might change my ways.