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Carrot failure @ Muline 3-Feb-2014 At 9:43:22 AM nmonteith

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I got a reply from Malcolm whilst I was overseas...

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I have tested my carrots and broken hangers in direct pull out. But then I have also have had two glue in rings fail on me too! I gues its natural variation in placement and or place-er. Not good though. The two other bolts you refered to, first bolt on After Midnight and forth bolt on Path of Yin while superficialy look like carrots are actually 1/2 x 3 1/2 inch Raul expansion bolts that I bought back from the States and are probably some of the strongest bolts out there. While not stainless they certainly are not mild steel, in fact grade 8 carbon steel. I used quite a few of these around about the place, mostly on steepground.

Even rusted to shit they probably are twice as strong as the quick draw you will clip it, with, which isn't saying much as most bolts are stronger than caribiners no matter what their condition. However I think some bolts may need some attention and I have thought about some of mine. But over reaction is not the answer, as I have mentioned I have had two glue ins rings pull out on me and have heard of many others failing but should that mean that all glue ins are shit and should be replaced, I don't think so. Climbing is potentially dangerous and all types of bolts potentially could fail. Best not to think about it too hard if you want to go climbing. Maybe trad is safer?

Anyway I will look at some of my older bolts with a more critical eye from now on.

Malcolm