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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

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Carrot failure @ Muline 27-Nov-2013 At 11:15:57 AM shiltz

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I have never thought of pitons in the same way as bolts. Pitons were designed to be removed by the second. I'd suggest you all consider them in the same class as a fixed wire or sling, just more likely to damage the rock.
Bolts on the other hand are intended to stay put for a long time so anyone placing them should take a long term view.
- Does the climb really need bolts?
- Does it suit the environment and ethic of the crag?
- How can they be located optimally, for safety, rock integrity, different height climbers, etc?
- Is the bolt technology right for the rock type and geographic location?
- Is there another technology that will be easier to replace when the time eventually comes?
As is it hard to predict how popular a crag might become in future I don't think this should be considered. Doing a half arsed job because you don't think many people will repeat a climb calls into question whether the climb really needs bolts to begin with.
Hand drilling on lead is an entirely different category, and rare these days. When the time comes to re-equip such routes I think all the questions above should be asked rather than assuming a like-for-like replacement is appropriate.