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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Carrot failure @ Muline 27-Nov-2013 At 11:14:21 AM nmonteith

Message

On 27/11/2013 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>>On 27/11/2013 nmonteith wrote:
>>And how do you Loctite a flush head dynabolt? Put the Loctite inside the
>>hole on the expansion cone??
>
>I was only referring to the loose nut aspect, and wouldn't be putting loctite in the internal workings of a dynabolt as it would make it difficult to nip them up tighter in the future if they needed it.

Take a look at how a flush-head dynabolt works - there is no external nut, instead there is a threaded bolt and threaded cone inside the hole. So the only place to Loctite it would be inside the internal workings.

>It comes in various strengths from 'mild-fixing' applications through
>to 'permanent-fixing' applications, which require very high strength torque
>to break the bond.
>It is fast setting (though full strength takes 24 hrs?), and is temperature
>resistant, with a single drop on the nut thread before doing it up, being
>sufficient for most applications.
>
>The lighter strength versions would still enable the nut to be removed
>if ever required.

The nuts undo because they get huge sideways forces put onto them when people fall off - especially on roof routes. So I doubt lighter versions would be strong enough to hold these forces at bay.

I'd be very interested to hear from anyone that has used Loctite successfully to stop nuts coming off on high trafficked routes.