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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Carrot failure @ Muline 25-Nov-2013 At 7:16:27 PM ademmert

Message

On 25/11/2013 nmonteith wrote:
>
>Rap bolting should be massively discouraged! What works much better is
>ascender bolting. Start from the bottom and work upwards, that way you
>can judge where the previous bolt is, thus the fall distance and danger
>and test what jugs make good clipping stances. Even better, top-rope the
>rope (or self belay toprope with a grigri) and mark bolt placements well
>in advance of actually pulling out the drill. This is obviously much harder
>to do on overhung routes. I've seen it again and again with people bolting
>by just rapping down drilling. It always makes for crap bolt placements.

I thought the idea was to reach as far as you can and mark that spot, then when drilling go half a foot higher ;)