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General Climbing Discussion

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Carrot failure @ Muline 20-Nov-2013 At 5:00:19 PM sliamese

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>That is what I in fact did - I responded to sliameses 'dont use tru-bolts'

tru-bolts are totally bomber, just a pain in the arse to replace when it needs doing. given your experience climbing you would have seen the crags in europe that have 2 or generations of bolts that all have their own hole, all looking ugly! just saying think about those in the future.

and sure theres plenty of bomber bolts/fixed gear of every kind. that doesn't justify its continued use!

>of 'why would people use home-made uncertified rings?' Surely the concept
>of 'best practice' suggests that a certified product should be used or
>else why are why debating safety if we are going to ultimately use a home
>made product with unknown load carrying capability. Its the 'elephant'
>in the general bolting debate . . .

you know as well as anyone that there's extensive testing been done by people on the typical home made glue-in bolt. i know i've loaded my U's to 15kN which in theory means i can rate them to 30kN as per AS1891.4. but who the fuch cares about Australian Sub-Standards anyway, not really relevant!

i think this debate shows why its not always best to have open slather discussions about this sorta crap as there's always someone with a red herring they know has no relevance to reality, but sticks by it. common sense must be employed, also being aware that people in high places do read these forums and can lose faith that climbers know how to manage themselves. one day parks in aus will catch up with the rest of the world, but until that happens we should be doing everything we can to ensure there's not a fatality some where like the Grampians, what would that do for access?

sure what bolt gets used doesn't really matter in the long run, but why not discuss, with some maturity and common sense what might be the best thing to use rather than letting the ego that taints australian climbing get in the way!!