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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Carrot failure @ Muline 17-Nov-2013 At 5:33:52 PM rowan
Message
I've watched as the bolts on mr joshua were removed and those carrots were so bomber it was really a pointless exercise..

I agree with One Day Hero in that it would be a real shame if it was botched. I don't necessarily agree the F.A should have carte blanche on the decision of whether to replace the bolts or not. I don't think the F.A owns the route once they have climbed it. The likes of Serpentine and so forth are special beyond white man ownership culture. The general history of the route and area and the people who put the time in should be respected though.

As far as Serpentine goes I think It should be kept the way it is, as so many people know it and love it the way it is. I personally think it should have all the fixed gear removed and that pussy jugging rope taken away.

If there are these bash ins around, could it be not possible to just abseil down in the sun, pull the carrots out if they come so easy and in the same hole just replace it with an expansion bolt, being carful not to damage the surrounding rock in the process. No glue dripped all over the wall as so many people seem to do. No extra hole. If its a hanger less carrot maybe glue is needed to glue a machine bolt back into the hole, being careful to be neat. I think basically, if you can hardly tell the bolts have been swapped there should be no issue.

I share ODH's fear of a shit job. The workmanship that is quite often displayed around on new routes these days actually disgusts me. If rebolting leads to this I think it would be better if people just had the occasional ground fall.

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