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Carrot failure @ Muline 17-Nov-2013 At 5:25:36 PM nmonteith

Message

On 17/11/2013 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 17/11/2013 nmonteith wrote:
>>
>>Lots of people, including me, have questioned Malcolm
>>about his rusty or bash-in bolts but the answer is always - they are
>fine.
>>I've offered to replace them. No - they are fine.
>
>I'm not surprised Neil, I wouldn't want you rebolting any quality stuff
>around canberra either. Look, I like you , I respect you as a climber,
>but you're a bloody hummingbird. The last thing needed here is an impatient
>hyperactive zealot going out and making a giant mess on the best routes
>in the world!

My patience has already stretched to 15 years (the first time I went to Muline was around 1998, and I commented to Malcolm about the crappy bolting on Pocket Full of Dreams then). I've also offered my drill and my bolts to Malcolm in the past so he could do the job himself. I'm all for a quality job - it just needs to be done. Putting it off for another decade when we have very real evidence that they are crap seems a bit weird.

>Now, I do agree that those bash in bolts are due for replacement, but
>like Sliamese, I'm extremely apprehensive about some muppet going up there
>and botching it.

Malcolm should just do it himself. I said as much to him a week ago. Problem solved. Stainless expansions or glue-ins. Either way it's good. How about titanium rings with the best quality glue? I'm sure we could get a lot of people to chip in for the cost for rebolting routes like Serpentine. There should be no sub-standard hardware on these routes. World-class routes deserve world-class bolting.

>Neil, if you're on a safety kick, go and fix all your routes at Upper
>Tribute. Those things are advertised in your new guide as safe sport routes,
>whereas they are in fact total ambushes for bumbly sport climbers. You
>boast that you bolted the whole crag in a weekend......well it fuching
>shows! There's broken ankle potential on every bloody route.

Upper Tribute? I did one first ascent up there. It was a mixed route that has been subsequently retro-bolted (with permission). Everything else has been bolted by an assortment of others since I left Victoria. And I'm confused - isn't climbing all about being a non-pussy-hard-climbing-c--k-waving-testosterone-adventure or you must be a sport climbing f.......?