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General Climbing Discussion

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Carrot failure @ Muline 14-Nov-2013 At 3:37:11 PM chalkischeap

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Just to clarify, many of the bolts in question are bash in stainless carrots in overhanging rock WITH FIXED HANGERS - see Neils photo on the first post

e.g Path of Yin, Desert Rose, After Midnight, Serpentine etc

The fixed hanger, tight up against the rock creates an excellent lever to loosen the bolt.

Many people have climbed these routes assuming that the bolts are expansions. All you see is a fixed hanger and a hexagonal head - an easy mistake to make but it could cost you your life.

Which one is the most dangerous ticking bomb?

- Path of Yin bolt 4 (groundfall when the bash-in bolt pulls out of the 65 degree overhang, horrible landing onto rock shelves)
- Desert Rose - super classic, very popular, dodgy bolts, at least the ground is flat, you might get away with paraplegia.
- Serpentine pitch 2 first bolt (factor 2 onto the belay, serious for leader and belayer)
- Serpentine pitch 2 last bolt (often used as a lower off - stripping all the gear below, bolt failure would cause a ground fall from high up on Taipan!)

I'm interested to see your list Neil, might cause a few of us to shudder.