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General Climbing Discussion

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Carrot failure @ Muline 14-Nov-2013 At 11:43:04 AM kp

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On 14/11/2013 patto wrote:
>I think the biggest differences in opinion in this thread arise from differing
>expectations.
>
>It seems that Neil expected that all carrot bolts were extremely reliable
>(or can be visually inspected). His faith has been shattered and that
>is extremely confronting and scary.
>
>Others with less lofty expectations of the reliability of a bash in carrot,
>especially under outward load are not completely surprised by the failure.
> Thus have not experience the same faith shattering experience as Neil.
> (Personally I have always been quite cautious to avoid outward load even
>if resting on a carrot bolt.)
>
>As for the future of bash in carrot bolts? Well a glue in is far far
>better if done properly. But those decisions are better left to those
>doing the bolting. Which is not me.

There are bash ins @ muline on 60 degree walls (path of yin 'grade 30'). How the hell do you avoid an outwards force on that?