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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion
General Climbing Discussion
Topic
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Date |
User
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Carrot failure @ Muline |
13-Nov-2013 At 5:08:23 AM |
mbrooks
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Message |
I agree whole heartedly with Neil on this. These bolts are simply not fit for their purpose, history or not, they are not designed for this use. Any engineer would laugh at the principle behind them. I like the fact they are part of our Australian history but they should be replaced before someone dies. Its not an if, it is a when!!! Its not the first time this has occurred, ss I have mentioned before, just ask Robby LeBreton who all to nearly became a victim to a bash in carrot (went hospital, nearly died).
We need to catch up with the rest of the world in fixed gear, not by retroing existing mixed routes but replacing existing carrots with modern expansion or glue ins. Gluin carrots may answer some of the solution in visually sensitive areas but in the hangerless style they are far from being entirely safe (still weak through the removable hanger and potential for the hanger to come off with modern draws).
I am first to admit that I have put some dubious bolts in my younger years (many replaced now) but they were what was best available at the time (any left in other routes feel free to replace). But it is time to step up with the times before another person becomes a victim.
I have replaced many bashins in past and had some come out with a quarter of a turn on a spanner, others more stubborn but not by much. A few taps of the hammer and most break or come free easily as the rock around them is weakened in placement!!!!.
Veryt glad you are ok Neil and Kent.
MattB |
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