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Carrot failure @ Muline 12-Nov-2013 At 9:27:06 PM nmonteith

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On 12/11/2013 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>~> All together, I'd say that every scenario has it's exceptions, and
>in this case you were simply that.
>~> ~> I would not use an exception to the normal course of events as justification
>to diss the normal...

I'm sorry, this is bullshit. The whole principle behind this type of bolt is crap to begin with. They should really be called a circular piton - because that's what they are. They are not fit for purpose, especially when the purpose in this case is to hold a large fall on an overhung wall. If it fails with me hand over handing up the rope it has no hope of holding a real lead fall. This is modern climbing, where people fall off - a lot. It's not hypothetical slab climbing where no one ever falls off.

>Given the ground bolt doesn't appear to have much taper, then the interference-fit
>would have been minimal.

Try explaining that to an engineer. And then explain to them that you put your entire life onto that "interference-fit" principle.

They are junk. I don't wish to expose myself or my friends to them anymore.