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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Australia's first 9a(35) 23-Aug-2013 At 9:15:07 PM onsight
On 23/08/2013 Wendy wrote:
>I was referring to this list:

Sorry it's not more detailed Wendy. My report was focusing on Retired Extremely Dangerous, I wasn't trying to list every last route that he did, just trying to give a feel for where he is at with his climbing and his opinion on some grades. Yes routes are missing, for example, he also did Snakes on a Train on Taipan, and I *think* it was first shot (having done Groove Train) but since I'm not 100% sure if it was first shot I wasn't going to mention it without checking, also I don't know what else he did that day...

Maybe I should have sat down and interrogated the poor guy more because there are some interesting things about his time here that are just coming out. Today he told me about something else that had gone unreported -- that he did a new boulder problem link in the Hollow Mtn Cave. He called it Wheelchair (the name should kinda explain where it goes) and gave it a route grade of 9a+, saying it was harder than the Wheel of Life which he'd give 9a. So I guess that'd be the hardest boulder problem in Oz now? He also mentioned another problem he did high up on Stapylton *somewhere* which he though was extremely hard... He's going to send through details sometime later.

>but are there reasons that it's possible to do 4 really bloody hard routes in the Blueys in a day and not 4 really hard routes on Taipan in a day?
Well again I don't know what he did in a day on Taipan so I don't know if the question is correct, but there could be reasons such as the Taipan routes are generally a lot longer than those ones at Shipley and there's more flaffing around required on Taipan... Also, by Alex's standards I wouldn't say he did 4 really hard routes at Shipley, Fabricator wouldn't rate for him as anything other a warm up, I only mentioned it for clarity about how quickly he did Keep on Trucking. So don't over analyse my list. He also mentioned something about doing all the routes on Spurt Wall except for Not Too Bad (and I can only assume he was intimidated by that ;-p because he didn't even try it). But we didn't go into details and perhaps there were other routes he skipped, so don't quote me.

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