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Interesting retro-bolting discussion 9-Aug-2013 At 9:54:38 AM simey

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On 8/08/2013 mikllaw wrote:
>pre-toproping replaces one form of security (protection) with another (prior knowledge).

Pre-inspection and pre-toproping prior to bolting run-out routes is definitely a pet hate of mine. As for the route in question, this definitely sounds like one of those. A lot of older routes in the States were established ground-up with bolting on the lead and I originally thought this route might fall into that category, but it doesn't. Therefore the history of this route doesn't sound like it is worth preserving and in the ensuing years no one has given a rats arse about the climb.

Routes have a first ascent history and a repeat ascent history, both of which are worth taking into consideration. Sometimes the repeat ascent history involves no ascents, but everyone knows about the route and respects its boldness, in which case such a climb's legacy should be respected. However when a route is established in some half-arsed fashion and then completely forgotten about for the next few decades, it is not surprising that it becomes fair game for some re-equipping. I am surprised the re-equipping of this particular route gained so much hostility.

As for Snow Blind (23)... I never understood the rationale for retaining the peg (over a bolt) on this particular route, particularly as there has always been a bolt at the start of the route! Its first ascent was rap-inspected and rap-equipped with both a peg and a bolt, so exactly what are we trying to preserve here?

I see Snow Blind very differently to say Plimsoll Line (22) up at the Flight Deck. Plimsoll Line is protected by two pegs (or it might just be one now) down low and the climbing feels rather committing. As much as I would like this climb to have bolts so it could be the perfect warm-up route for the area, it would go against a stack of other factors that I think are worth preserving. It is a great natural line, originally aided and many years later free-climbed. The first ascent parties I suspect met the challenges ground-up and obviously decided they could meet the challenges without resorting to bolts. The climb has had loads of ground-up ascents since and is well-respected as a worthy, although slightly bold grade 22, requiring commitment from leaders. Climbers need to determine the state of the pegs and their own ability prior to launching up it. It is all a part of the character of the route and as a result I feel is worth preserving (even though I wouldn't mind a bolt at the start nowadays!).