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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Interesting retro-bolting discussion 7-Aug-2013 At 10:33:39 AM Tastrad
Message
There is one instance at Arapiles where a piton should be replaced by a bolt and that is Snowblind. I fell off the upper crack and 2 cams I thought were good ripped out and the old piton pulled me up one metre off the deck and I kicked the belayer in the head. Apparently this piton has pulled out in the past. I heard that it was retrobolted because the piton has been known to fall out. But in the interests of preserving history and the trad ethic, the bolt was removed and the piton replaced. Could someone please clarify whether this instance of retrobolting/chopping is accurate. By the way, we used pitons quite alot in the 80's when things got a bit thin and hard and never placed bolts. However we always removed them afterwards, mainly because we didn't want to leave a good piton behind, but also because we assumed that anyone wanting to repeat the route would have their own pitons - most climbers had a rack of pins in those days.

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