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General Climbing Discussion

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Longest climbs? 9-Jul-2013 At 9:46:01 AM gfdonc

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11. 35m 17 (crux). This is tricky as the belayer can’t see the leader for the difficult sections. Communications can be difficult. The crux is well protected by high bolts for both leader and seconder – the overall grade could be reduced by tensioning across this section.
Head right easily across slabs (no pro) to a shallow corner. Go around this (pro), head right around to the next pillar, make a step up and right to a bolt, then down and right to another lower bolt, and across (tricky here) to a blank section of slab with a high bolt. Mantle downwards then cross the slab on small holds, then climb up to clip a second high bolt (ring) for the follower. (A ‘direct’ at the level of the bolts is possible, would be 19 or 20). Belay from double rings.
Bail/bivi option: a 60m rope (single) reaches the ground from here, and the FA party bivvied overnight on padded ledges (called ‘beds’) in Halls Gap.
12. 53m 11. The ‘Bowl pitch’. Head right and around the arete, staying along the same level with two bolts, then make a tricky step down and across the bowl, clip a nut with a long sling to protect the second. Continue easily right (runout, one cam) to DBB with one ring and one FH.
Variant: it would be possible to drop further down from the first bolt and avoid the bowl, scrambling easily and directly down to the belay at the start of pitch 14.
13. 18m 6. The ‘chicken pitch’. Downclimb 15m from the belay, then move 5m right to a DBB on a good stance. The second should rethread the ring & be toproped by the leader, no other pro.
14. 60+m 10. The ‘rope-stretcher’ or second waterfall pitch. You need the full 60m, don’t use up the lead rope in the belay. Downclimb the left side of the ledge then move right, place a wire underneath the ledge and continue across the runnel and downwards then across an easy traverse line (bolt and cam). Continue right to reach the base of the Kon-tiki face, clipping the DBB on Ripples then continuing right along the line to clip the double rings of Ra Ra Ra at a good stance. Bail option: rap 30m from these rings.
15. 56m 15. The ‘fragile pitch’. Be very wary of the rock. Well protected, interesting climbing, but don’t use up your small cams too early. Traverse right 8m, step up a little, then traverse delicately right for about 12m where the holds get better (if you can trust them) and step up to a bolt. Up and right again to another bolt then easily right to a DBB.
16. 59m 8. Climb down and right along a groove, friction across the runnel (bolt), then continue easily on ledges to a good sloping stance (bolt + cam).
17. 59m 2. Easily right along the line, rising near the end to belay from bolt + good cam.
18. 59m 6. The ‘horn pitch’. Along the line to a water streak, slinging the odd phallus. Step down, cross the streak then step further down onto a large bushy ledge. Bolt + cam.
19. 52m 12. The ‘turret pitch’. From the right end of the ledge follow a shallow groove up (no pro), heading for 3 distinct ‘horns’ above. Climb up to a shallow corner and up between the left and centre horn to a bolt. Care of the rock. Up to the crack to make a steeper and well protected exit up the final corner.
Descent: rap 22m from rings (just right of the finish), off the front of the buttress down to a large ledge. Head right (facing in), past Coral Cave, then descend downhill into scrub and bushbash down to the plateau. Allow 1½ to 2 hours to get back to your car from the top.