Climbing a 14 pitch route of the Squamish Chief called Angels Crest in a blizzard with a light rack, light clothing and not enough time. One snow covered slab pitch near the top was going to end in broken bones if I slipped, and I spent 20 minutes standing on a little hold before committing my weight to another. It was pure luck that I didn't fall, and the consequences would have been serious for my partner as well. Oh, I had just had a baby too.
Read about it in an up and coming Alpinist..... |