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General Climbing Discussion

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She sells sea shells - Point Perp 11-Mar-2013 At 10:33:27 PM uwhp510

Message

On 11/03/2013 Nmonteith wrote:
>A couple of weeks ago when this first flared up I think there was a bit
>of a (gasp) consensus about route style, and all of the bolters realized
>they had stepped over the mark.

I also was of that impression, but I also understand that part of the deal that was worked out was that some of the new stuff would be retro-mixedified (ie superfluous bolts that are next to good gear placements would be taken out). Hopefully that's still the plan, otherwise it would seem like the compromise isn't being honoured.

Regarding bolt wars, consider the following.

The following two actions are symmetric;

a) Removing a trad route by (either partly or fully) retro-bolting it,
b) Removing a sport route by (either partly or fully) de-bolting it.

The only differences are that; (a) happens quite a lot, and (b) happens almost never. I think that doing a bit of (b) (maybe even just talking about it) might provide a bit of perspective and reflection in prospective bolters that maybe doing (a) isn't cool either.