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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
French grade our sport climbs 11-Feb-2013 At 12:59:42 PM sliamese
>Another hiccup with adopting the French system in the manner that Mikl
>has suggested is how does that work at Arapiles where harder trad routes
>are frequently climbed in a sport climbing manner on pre-placed gear?

I'm all for it, one inconvenience IMO isnt enough not to justify it! Nothing would change as the way it is now. "i climbed that 7c+(8a!!) cobwebs onsight placing gear, or i climbed that 7c+, cobwebs, after 48 toprope burns on preplace gear with really long slings." the grade and style of ascent are too very different things, tho one does reflect more difficulty!

your still going to have all the same debates about soft/hard routes etc, all that will change is a number to another number, with all the other rabble still there!

How do i grade mixed routes? The Totem pole for example is a sport route IMO, 7b is fair!

I think it makes more sense to sack off our dumb M grading system for aid! as M = mixed climbing EVERYwhere else in the world. Yes there is mixed climbing in Australia, about as much as there is aid-climbing!!

FYI 7C+ = V10 boulder while 7c+ = gr28 route!

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